| ARABIC
II. Superficial peeling with glycolic acid: 1. Definition of a peeling: It is a medical action. It consists in applying superficially on the skin surface a chemical compound with the purpose of producing a renewing of the superficial layers of the skin. Peeling =To peel, to desquamate. Peelings with glycolic acid are often named {{soft peelings}} (compared to other peelings resorcinol, phenol, ...). As it is the shortest chained a - hydroxy - acid, glycolic acid is the simplest and more effective. Why pH is so important? In a peeling, the lowest possible pH is needed (caution with tolerance!) as well as strong concentration in AHA. In a peeling, the maximum of glycolic acid is needed under free form, and therefore a pH < 2,5. At this pH, the free form is > 90 %. Therefore, the fact of being at pH 0,5 or pH 2 does not modify significantly the quantity of acid under free form. Therefore, for a same activity of glycolic acid, tolerance will be better at pH 2 than at pH 0,5. On the contrary, the inflammation due to the acidity will be higher at pH 0,5 than 2, and will cause an increased desquamation, and therefore efficacy. Therefore, the desquamation results on the one hand from the activity due to the free acid, and from the other hand, from the inflammation resulting from the acidity of the product. One can only estimate the real activity of a peeling by evaluating its pH and its concentration of free acid. 2. Advantages of glycolic acid: Apart from its efficacy, glycolic acid: * is suitable to all types of skin, in any season; * defies the contra - indications of retinoic acid (pregnancy, sun-exposure); * permits a modulable peeling: superficial for the skin with slight problems, or in the contrary in depth; * Its advantages compared to other peelings, result from the fact that it can be neutralized more rapidly, making it less agressive, better tolerated with slighter sensations of burns. 3. Disadvantages of glycolic acid: * A risk of allergy is always possible, from which the interest of preparing the skin with a cream containing glycolic acid; * Variability of the exposure - time in accordance with the type of skin, the pH of the product, and its concentration; * Neutralisation may be difficult : several applications are necessary; * Scably evolution when the exposure - time is badly evaluated, with a low pH - product. 4. Indications: Peelings show good results in: * Cutaneous photo - ageing; * Acne; * Hyperkeratosic dermatosis; * Pigmentary spots; * Superficial scars. 5. Instructions t’or use: - Preparation of the skin pre - peeling: The skin must be compulsorily prepared at least 15 days before the first session with a cream containing glycolic - acid (Glyco - A) with purpose of increasing the penetration of the product at each peeling; * detecting an eventual contact allergy. The irritation skin - cares are strongly insuitable during the week before the peeling. - Peeling by itself: It is recommended to make a test on a small surface before total application. The skin is cleansed with acetone (oily skins) or alcohol. It is of the utmost importance to eliminate any trace of sebum, for it neutralizes glycolic acid. The surface to be treated has to be dampened, applying the solution with a sterile pad. An excess of the product has to be avoided around the eyes. The exposure - time is variable : from 2 to 10 minutes. it depends on the phototype and the fragility of the skin. When the peeling is well - tolerated, the exposure - time is increased. This exposure - time is strictly indicative, and must be modulated in accordance with the concentration in free form, the pH of the product, the tolerance and sensivity of the skin. Reduce this time when the sensation of burning is too strong, or the erythema significant, increase it when the phenomenous are delayed. The exposure - time will also vary from one practitioner to the other, in accordance with the way of application, and the quantity of product which is used. The following observations are normal : for 50 % peeling, the skin simply shows erythemas. At 70 %, pain is more important and disappears after 3 - 5 hours. The erythema may last 8 days, and if the peeling has been deep, the evolution is scably. However, a 50 % peeling with a very low pH will be more effective, and therefore, less tolerated than a formulation at 70 % partially neutralized with pH Ex. : product at pH < 2 - 1st session : 2 to 3 minutes - 2nd session: 3 to 4 minutes - 3rd session : 4 to 6 minutes - 4th session : 6 to 8 minutes In any case, if important redness, or excessive stingings appear, it is essential to rinse immediately. In order to achieve good results, 4 to 6 sessions at interval from 1 week minimum to 2 weeks maximum are needed. - After the peeling: Once the exposure - time has passed, the concentration of the product must be diminished with water. The face is rinsed by using sterile pads moistured with water, starting by the areas where the product has been applied firstly. Absolutely avoid contact with the eyes. |
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ENGLISH التقشير بالحمض
الغليكولي
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